Kusadasi
PLACES TO VISIT
Ephesus – Ephesus
HOW TO GET THERE
Located within the borders of Selçuk District on the İzmir Aydın road, the Ephesus Archaeological Site is 70 km from İzmir, 20 km from Kuşadası and 60 km from Aydın.
PLACES TO VISIT
Temple of Artemis
Ruins
Cave of the Seven Sleepers
Ephesus is on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage candidate list.
OVERVIEW
Initially located around Ayasuluk Hill, the first settlement later moved to the banks of the Küçük Menderes (Kaystros) River. Located on the seashore in ancient times, the city was gradually isolated from the sea by silt carried by the Kaystros River. Ephesus is currently approximately 6 km from the Aegean Sea.
Temple of Artemis
The Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of Antiquity, was located outside the current site. Today, the temple site is a deep pit. In the 6th century BC, an altar dedicated to the mother goddess and a simple temple were built. A second temple, constructed entirely of marble on the same site, had a façade decorated with 36 columns decorated with reliefs. Destroyed by a fire in the 4th century BC, the temple was subsequently rebuilt. Construction was still underway when Alexander the Great arrived in the region. According to the Roman historian Pliny, this temple, measuring 130 x 68 meters, was surrounded by 127 columns, each 18 meters high. The Temple of Artemis was the largest temple in Anatolia during antiquity. Damaged during the Gothic invasion of the 3rd century AD, the temple was never restored.
Artifacts unearthed during the initial excavations conducted by the British around the Temple of Artemis are exhibited in the British Museum, London. Subsequent excavations were conducted by the Germans in 1892. Some of the artifacts unearthed during these excavations found their way to Austrian collectors, who in turn passed into the hands of Austrian officers stationed in Istanbul. In 1895, the Austrians obtained excavation permission from the Ottoman government and founded the Vienna Ephesus Museum with the artifacts they unearthed during the Ephesus excavations. A few artifacts remaining from the Temple of Artemis are also exhibited in the Selçuk and Istanbul Archaeological Museums.
ARTEMIS / DIANA
Daughter of Zeus and Leto, she is the twin of Apollo. She is the goddess of the moon, the hunt, and chastity. She is both a virgin, a mother, and the helper of women in labor. In Ephesus, she replaced the mother goddess Cybele and was revered as the goddess of fertility. In her statues in the Ephesus Museum, she has many breasts, and for this reason, she is referred to as Artemis Polymastos, meaning "Artemis with many breasts."
STATE AGORAS (UPPER AGORA)
The Sacred Way, which begins in front of the Magnesia Gate on the road to Mount Bulbul, extended all the way to Artemis. If you begin your tour of the site from here, you'll find yourself in front of the State Agora. Used until the 5th century AD, the Agora measures 160 x 56 meters. In the past, a temple also stood in the center of the Agora.
ODEON AND PRYTANEION
The Odeon and the Prytaneion (City Hall) stood side by side. It is thought that Ephesus's 1,400-seat Odeon also served as the Bouleuterion (Council House). Conferences, presentations, and concerts were held in the Odeon. The sacred fire in the Prytaneion was kept constantly alight by the Curetes or the Hestian virgins (Vestal Virgins in the Roman era) of other Ionian cities. Statues of Artemis, now on display in the Selçuk Museum, were also discovered during the Prytaneion excavations.
The sacred ramp opened onto Domitian Square. On one side of this square stood the Pollio Monument and the Temple of Domitian, in the center was a monument with a relief of Nike (Victory), and on the other side was the Memnos Monument. Caryatids were placed on the first floor of the Memnos Monument, and statues of important figures were placed on the second floor.
Caryatids
According to the Roman philosopher Vitruvius, Caryatids symbolized the captive Carian women condemned to hard labor after the Carians lost a war against the Persians in the 4th century BC. Indeed, the Caryatids resemble tortured people rather than dancing women.
CURETLER STREET
The most important street in Ephesus is the Curetes Street, which begins in front of the Odeon. The Curetes, mentioned here, were priestesses responsible for keeping the sacred fire of the goddess burning in the Temple of Artemis. Shops lined both sides of one section of the street. At the end of the sacred ramp, reliefs of the god Hermes can be seen.
HERMES / MERCURY
Hermes, the messenger of the gods, is the protector of merchants, shepherds, and thieves. His symbols are his wings and the snake-encrusted staff gifted by Apollo. He began to speak at birth. There is a relief pedestal on Curetes Street depicting him carrying a sacrifice.
A little further down the ramp, the Gate of Hercules, considered the symbolic boundary between the administrative and commercial sections of the city, and reliefs of Hercules can be seen. From here, the city offers a magnificent view. The remaining section of the street was adorned with statues of senators, prominent figures of the empire, and athletes. Roman cities were adorned with statues, trees, flowers, fountains, pools, roads, and aqueducts. In Greek art, spaces that can be viewed from all four directions but are not inhabited predominate. Roman buildings, on the other hand, were designed to be lived in.
TRIANUS FOUNTAIN
Only the pedestal of the Trajan Fountain remains standing. Water flowed from beneath the statue and collected in a pool at the front. This pool was 12 meters long. The monumental fountain was adorned with statues.
TEMPLE OF HADRIAN
After the baths, you arrive at the Temple of Hadrian, dating from the 2nd century AD. Dedicated to Hadrian, one of the most important emperors in Roman history in Ephesus, the temple features reliefs of Tyche, the goddess of wealth, on its outer arch, and Medusa on its inner arch. The wall reliefs, the originals of which are in the Ephesus Museum, depict the legendary founding of Ephesus by Androclus and the gods of Olympus. Friezes of meander and eggs on either side of the entrance complete the exterior decorations.
SLOPE HOUSES
On the hillside adjacent to the street stood the Houses of the Rich. Houses in Roman cities were initially constructed of brick, later of marble. Their floors were decorated with mosaics, and their walls with frescoes. Rooms in Roman houses were arranged around a large courtyard.
The same practices and layouts are seen in the wealthy homes here. Heating was provided by open hearths and barbecues. Only the wealthy could afford separate kitchens, private toilets and bathrooms, and water and sewage systems. Houses were illuminated by oil lamps or candles made of olive oil or fish oil. Domesticated dogs are also known to have been used as guards in wealthy homes. Safes were also kept in the homes to protect against theft.
The first construction in this part of the city dates to the Augustan period in the 1st century BC. Initially, six houses were arranged on three terraces, and it appears that one of the houses was later subdivided. House number 6 is more appropriately called a palace. Its owner, Gaius Flavius Pubius Aptus, was a prominent figure who, despite being of Greek origin, was granted Roman citizenship and rose to the rank of consul.
The owners of these houses, located in the city's most desirable locations, seem to have primarily aimed to impress their guests. The high-ceilinged houses were designed around a courtyard. Initially, palaces were rare in Roman social life, but palatial structures began to proliferate in later periods. Elite homes generally had separate sections for men and women. Following the houses and palaces, apartment buildings exceeding 20 meters in height were built within large blocks. These apartments, designed around a shared courtyard, featured wooden upper floors.
The hillside houses were abandoned after the major earthquake of 262 AD. The collapsed ceilings and walls also provided a form of natural protection, allowing the mosaics and frescoes dating back to 230 AD to survive to this day.
It is believed that the cabinets at the entrance of House No. 6 were used as archives. The marble hall served as a dining room for guests. Covered in marble and decorated with luxurious furnishings, this hall had a ceiling of approximately 7 meters. However, food was not cooked in the house itself, but rather cooked in another kitchen before being brought here. Drinkable, cold stream water flowed from a fountain in the mosaic-covered wall of the house. The hall's ceiling was made of wood decorated with gold leaf. The room opposite the house's basilica was used for private gatherings. The basilica's marble walls were decorated with stucco. Historians suggest that houses also determined the hierarchical status of the people. According to Roman law, anyone could enter the first courtyard of a house. Afterward, only invited guests could enter. Areas like the small room seen in this house were only accessible to family friends.
The house had a dining room and a pool next to it where fish swam. When the owners wanted fish, they would fish it out and cook it. It appears that servants hung baskets of food from an opening in the room's ceiling, as in Rome, and guests could choose from the dishes they desired.
Repairing the mosaics that adorn the house is quite difficult, laborious, and time-consuming. Considering that there are approximately 40,000 marble pieces waiting to be assembled in 80 crates, and that only 100 pieces can be assembled per day, it's easier to understand why the repairs are progressing so slowly.
The marble seen in the houses was brought from the Peloponnese, Tunisia, Egypt, and various parts of Anatolia, particularly Afyon. The marble, brought in blocks, was cut in workshops in Ephesus. The characteristic feature of the marble called "Spolino," also seen on Curetes Street, is that it forms symmetrical patterns when cut and cut.
House number 2 belonged to a priest of the Dionysian temple who contributed financially to Artemis ceremonies. This house was buried under another structure during the Byzantine period. It appears to have had a courtyard in the center, porticoes on three sides, and a reception hall.
House number 7 is particularly important. Since only two skeletons were found in this house during the excavations, it appears that these two individuals were the only people living in the hillside houses during the earthquake of 262 AD, and perhaps the other houses were being renovated at the time. There were no connections between the houses, but access to common areas such as toilets and baths was anticipated.
House No. 4 was discovered to be a two-story structure incorporating diverse architectural elements. The floor of this house features mosaics depicting a bull-headed lion, Medusa, and Dionysus, as well as geometric patterns. Artifacts such as ivory items, tables, and chairs from the museum were unearthed in this house.
The motifs on the walls of this house appear to have been painted in a blue tone. Blue is a color reminiscent of the sky. Because it was imported from Egypt, it was also a costly color. The medallions on the ceiling of the house contained mosaics depicting Dionysus, Ariadne, and panthers pulling chariots. The mosaics adorning the house featured peacocks, a hippopotamus, Poseidon, and water motifs symbolizing eternity, surrounding a basket. The statue of an Egyptian priest on display in the museum was also found in this house.
In the early years of excavations, artifacts such as frescoes and mosaics were moved to the museum. However, in later years, the houses were protected against moisture and pollution with special materials, and the artifacts were kept in situ.
Even after centuries, the hillside houses continue to fascinate visitors with their locations, frescoes, mosaic decorations, marble coverings, heating and water systems.
SCHOLASTICA BATHS
You can go up to the Scholastica Baths from the side of the fountain. Ephesus had six baths. They were where people met, trade deals were conducted, and poets and philosophers gave speeches. Scholastica began her life as a dancer and succeeded in becoming the governor's wife. In Ephesus and the cities of Rome, being a prostitute was not considered a bad profession. Similarly, in the port cities, castrated boys were sold alongside prostitutes.
Roman men would take a quick cold bath before leaving home in the morning. The main bath was taken in the afternoon at the bathhouse. Soldiers, children, and slaves were free to use the bathhouses. From the 2nd century AD onward, bathhouses were reserved for men at certain times of the day and for women at certain times. The changing times were announced by bells. Gymnastics were practiced in the bathhouses, and massages were also available. Hot and cold pools were used for washing and refreshment. Some bathhouses were filthy because they were not supplied with abundant running water. Food was also sold in the bathhouses. Bread, circuses, and baths were three essential elements in Roman life.
THIS
From the end of the 4th century BC onward, water was brought to Roman cities via aqueducts. Water transported from springs was first allowed to settle in cisterns to purify it of its coarse impurities. Earthen pipes, which did not compromise the water's quality, were preferred for transport. Poor quality water was also used in baths. Rainwater was the most valuable, and in Anatolian cities, it was collected in cupolas.
PUBLIC TOILET
After the temple, you come to the latrina (public toilet). Latrinas, an important part of social life, were generally located at the intersections of main streets. A small fee was charged for using the toilet. There were separate sections for men and women. Sticks with sponges tied to their ends were used like toilet paper. These sponges were cleaned in the water flowing in the channel in front of the floor seating. Disposable seaweed was also used for cleaning.
The terracotta pipes you'll see on the tour carried Ephesus's clean and wastewater. Despite the infrastructure, not every home in Ephesus had a toilet because construction was expensive. The Romans preferred to solve the problem of toilets by using toilet bowls. Emptying the toilet bowls presented another challenge. Human urine, along with animal feces, was used in the fields, tanneries, and tailoring shops. Some of this urine was collected in basins placed on street corners. This created a trade, and Emperor Vespasian even imposed a tax on the urine trade.
HOUSE OF LOVE
The building immediately adjacent to the restrooms is identified as the House of Love. The ground floor of the three-story structure is decorated with mosaics and the walls with frescoes. The ground floor is a reception hall, and the upper floor rooms, with windows overlooking the inner courtyard, are believed to have been reserved for couples. Marble Street began in front of the House of Love. Directly opposite the House of Love on Curetes Street is a tomb. The person buried in this tomb is most likely Cleopatra's youngest sister, Arsinoe IV.
CELSU LIBRARY
Built between 115 and 117 AD, the Library of Celsus is one of the most magnificent structures in Ephesus. The two-story library is 10 meters high and 16 meters wide. Severely damaged by fire in 262 AD, the library was subsequently repaired. The tomb of the library's architect is also located inside. The scrolls, originally written on papyrus and later on parchment, were stored in stone niches protected from moisture. The Library of Celsus is thought to hold approximately 12,000 scrolls.
Of the statues located at the front of the library, Sophia symbolized wisdom, Arete virtue, Ennoia good-naturedness, and Episete culture. The originals of these statues are on display at the Ephesus Museum in Vienna. A temple dedicated to Serapis, a god of Alexandrian origin, is also located on the ridge behind the library. Like Asclepius, Serapis was a god of health and also the patron of merchants and sailors.
LOWER AGORA
The Lower Agora is entered through the monumental gate next to the Library of Celsus. The Monumental Gate of Mazeus Mithridates was built during the reign of Emperor Augustus. While women shopped in the shops surrounding the square-plan agora, men chatted and played games with their friends.
ARCADIANUS STREET
Arkadiane Street, which runs alongside the Agora, extended all the way to the harbor. Shops lined both sides of Arkadiane Street, 600 meters long and 11 meters wide. Statues of the four Evangelists stood on four columns at the end of the street. Remains of lamps found during archaeological excavations indicate that the street was illuminated at night, and trade continued uninterrupted.
Ephesus Theatre
The Ephesus Theatre is located southwest of Marble Street, where it intersects with Arkadiane Boulevard. Dating back to the 2nd century AD, the Ephesus Theatre had a capacity of 24,000. It had two alleyways, three levels, and 65 rows of seats. It was the largest theatre in Asia Minor. Despite its size, the alleyways allowed audiences to easily access their seats. Roman theatres were designed for public entertainment. Greek tragedy and comedy gave way to mime performances in the Roman era.
Theatrical performances were funded by a contribution system. The city's wealthy and prominent figures covered the cost of the plays. Audience members would bring their pillows to the theater and set up their sunshades. The play program would be displayed at the theater entrance.
AMPHITHEATRES
Amphitheaters were common structures in Western Rome. Within Eastern Rome, only five amphitheaters are known, including the partially visible amphitheaters of Pergamum, Anavarza near Ceyhan, and Cyzicus in Erdek, as well as the completely lost amphitheaters of Istanbul and Antakya. Indeed, amphitheatre construction ceased after the 5th century AD.
Roman Architecture
The greatest architectural achievements of the Romans were the construction of arches and domes. They used a mortar similar to concrete in construction. They plastered the bricks and stones of the structures with Khorasan mortar, a mixture of lime, brick dust, volcanic tuff, and river sand. They calculated the angles of construction to best allow light to pass through, based on the seasons. Roman architects constructed sturdy buildings designed to resist earthquakes and whose flexibility would mitigate the risk. Interestingly, while even the identities of potters were known in the Greeks, in Rome, with a few exceptions like Vitruvius, the names and titles of architects are unknown. The signatures and names of architects are not visible on Roman buildings.
EASTERN GYMNASIUM
Coming into the city from the Magnesia Gate, you'll see the Eastern Gymnasium and the Monastery of Young Girls. In front of the theater was another gymnasium. Athletics, wrestling, weightlifting, and ball games were held there. Wrestlers would first oil their bodies to make them flexible and then cover their bodies with powder to prevent the oil from slipping.
DOUBLE CHURCH (VIRTUAL MARY CHURCH)
The Church of the Virgin Mary, or the Double Church, is on your left as you approach the seaside gate of Ephesus. The third major ecumenical council was held in this church on June 22, 431. This council recognized the Virgin Mary as the Theotokos, or God-bearer, and excommunicated Nestorius, a cleric who opposed this ideology. The same church hosted a second religious council in 449.
The church measures 265 m x 29.5 m. It was converted into a basilica in the 11th century. It is one of the first seven churches in Anatolia. It is also known as the Çifte Church because an addition was built to the original church in the 7th century. It is the first church in Christianity dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
VEDIUS GYMNASIUM AND GLADIATOR FIGHTS
After leaving the ruins, as you head towards Selçuk, the Vedius Gymnasium, or arena, will be on your right. The Ephesus Arena was one of the most important venues for gladiator fights. The most famous gladiator school in Ephesus was founded by the Vedius family. It is known that the Ephesians learned gladiator fighting from the Etruscans. The first known gladiator fight in Ephesus was organized by General Lucullus in 69 BC. As this spectacle gained popularity, noble and wealthy families began establishing gladiator schools. Prisoners of war, slaves, prisoners, and volunteers trained in these schools were put to fight in arenas. Gladiators initially trained with wooden weapons and were fed special foods to strengthen their muscles. As gladiator fights began to generate money for organizers and promoters, the concept of entertainment in Roman cities would completely change.
Gladiators were sometimes pitted against each other, sometimes against slaves, and sometimes against wild animals like bears, lions, and tigers. Death was a common outcome for a gladiator. Gladiators who survived three fights would be promoted to the master class. Those who survived five, if they were slaves, would be granted freedom. However, very few gladiators ever chose freedom. Former gladiators who remained in the schools trained the army's favored officers. There is a story of a gladiator who won ten fights in Ephesus. Considering that an average of two events were held annually, and that the average lifespan at the time was 35 years, we can better understand that this was not a very common occurrence.
PUBLIUS AELIUS HADRIANUS AND ANTINOUS
Hadrian was born in Spain on January 24, 76. He was proclaimed son and later heir apparent by Emperor Trajan, his father's maternal cousin, on August 8, 117, in Selinus (present-day Gazipaşa), a few days before the emperor's death. During Hadrian's reign, which saw him ascend to the throne three days after Trajan's death, the Roman Empire would extend from Scotland to the Sahara and from the Atlantic Ocean to the Euphrates River. At the age of 24, Hadrian married Trajan's 13-year-old niece, Vibia Sabina, but they had no children. It is said that Hadrian was involved in the unexpected death of Vibia Sabina, who had always remained in the background.
Hadrian, who left a significant mark on Anatolia, ruled the Roman Empire for 21 years between 117 and 138 AD. One of the most important people in Hadrian's life was undoubtedly Antinous of Claudiopolis (present-day Bolu). In 123 AD, at the age of 47, Hadrian began living with Antinous, who had been chosen as the most beautiful man in a competition in Claudiopolis. This great love affair lasted until Hadrian's departure for Egypt in 130 AD to participate in the Osiris ceremonies. It is unknown whether Antinous's death, which occurred when he drowned in the Nile River, was accidental, murderous, or suicide. However, the most likely possibility is that Hadrian threw Antinous into the water because he did not want to continue his life as a son-in-law.
After Antinous's death, Hadrian would build the city of Antinoupolis in Egypt in his lover's name, as well as temples in Bolu and Mantineia in southern Greece. Antinous is the only figure other than emperors depicted on Roman imperial coins.
The first settlement in modern-day Balıkesir, Hadrianutherae, was also founded by Hadrian. Similarly, Edirne's name comes from Hadrian. Eskipazar, or Hadrianapolis, near Kastamonu, is another city named after the emperor.
Heraclitus
He is considered one of the most important philosophers of Ionia. He lived in Ephesus between 535 and 475 BC. Realizing he was at odds with his contemporaries, he distanced himself from social life. He was interested in metaphysics and politics, and did not shy away from harshly criticizing the political structure of his time. He is credited with the saying, "You cannot wash in the same water twice."
CAVE OF THE SEVEN SLEEPERS
The legend of this cave dates back to the reign of Emperor Decius in the 3rd century AD. Legend has it that seven people fleeing Decius's persecution hid in a cave on Mount Panayır and slept there for 200 years. The cave, whose four floors have been excavated, contains two churches and numerous tombs.
